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The National Hotel, present day. In Junea historic Frenchtown building constructed in was deserted and boarded-up, wearing an appearance that reflected the recession that had swept across the nation in the year.

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As we approach Lambertville, we seem to slip back in time. Many of the stately Victorian and earnest colonial houses, as well as the egalitarian, federal-style row buildings, appear to have changed little since they were built in the 18th and 19th centuries. Thank goodness the main business area received historic-preservation status in Lambertville, settled infor a time was an industrial town, its factories producing goods from underwear to rubber bands.

Our first stop, the Lambertville Trading Company 43 Bridge Streetis a quirky but inviting combination of coffee shop and candy-and-chocolate emporium that also sells kitchen knickknacks.

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After a cup of strong java, we begin to explore. Downtown is packed with art galleries, antique stores, restaurants and other quaint establishments. Artful attention to detail is a hallmark of Lambertville businesses; even the local bank pitches in, placing wicker furniture invitingly on the front porch. A thrift shop, Mill Crest Vintage 72 Bridge Streetfills its windows with an enchanting display of hanging ice skates and ornaments.

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Strolling west on Bridge Street, we reach the banks of the Delaware River and the two-lane bridge that connects Lambertville with New Hope, Pennsylvania. New Hope preceded Lambertville as a hot destination several decades ago. Just north of the bridge we spy a group of four charming, brightly painted row houses, each the site of an antiques store or gallery.

We stop in at A Stage in Time 9 Lambert Lanewhich specializes in Mission-style furniture, and admire the spare, sturdy lines of the original Stickley wooden tables and chairs. The owner, Peter Prorok, extols the joys of living in Lambertville—including the gorgeous view of the river from his patio above the shop. We break from browsing to enjoy the foliage along the Delaware and Raritan Canal State Park, which runs alongside the river. The park follows an old towpath on which mules once pulled barges along the canal.

Now cyclists, runners and walkers frequent the well-maintained towpath, which stretches 16 miles north to Frenchtown and 14 miles south to Trenton then inland all the way to New Brunswick.

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After our stroll, we hustle back on the shopping beat, checking out Lovrinic Antiques 15 North Union Streetwith its lovely American and English pieces from the s and s, and beautiful collections of French pottery and ceramic birds. Jen, who grew up nearby, fondly remembers eating at Manon as a teenager. People come from all over to eat here.

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Popular places include the Lambertville Station Restaurant 11 Bridge Streeta sprawling establishment that boasts a wine cellar, pub and canal-side outdoor seating. They also sell furniture, books, silver, paintings—just about anything old you can think of.

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Mission in mind, Jen and I return to the car and head north on Route 29, which follows the river to Frenchtown. Along the way, we take a slight detour on Route to Sergeantsville, where we drive through the last covered wooden bridge in New Jersey. Once New Jersey had more than 75 covered bridges, but over the years fires and floods wiped them out, leaving just this one.

The rest of the drive to Frenchtown is equally rewarding. On our right, cliffs climb along the road; on our left flow the river and canal. The leaves are spectacular.

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A local resident, Gilbert has stocked the store with Buddhas and other alluring artifacts picked up on her travels. Arriving there, we are tempted by the upscale Frenchtown Inn 7 Bridge Street just local hotties frenchtown new jersey the street. We want something a little more casual, so we stick to plan A. We sit at a French bistro table on the enclosed patio and take in the sweeping view of the river and the Uhlerstown-Frenchtown iron-truss bridge. The businesses, located mainly in 19th-century buildings on a few adjacent streets, are more eclectic and unusual than those of Lambertville.

The town itself has a laid-back, slightly down-at-heels feel that seems more genuine and unself-conscious. And the autumn flower displays in front of the shops add a touch of charm.

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Not surprisingly, folks we speak to in Frenchtown tend to agree with our assessment. Across the street from Modern Love is a shop where you can rent kayaks to paddle down the river. Bike rentals are available nearby.

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Fortunately, the towns are only 15 miles apart, so you can visit both—and still make it home just as the school bus pulls up. Jersey LivingOutdoors articles. By submitting comments you grant permission for all or part of those comments to appear in the print edition of New Jersey Monthly. Stroll the Delaware and Raritan Canal in Lambertville. Jacqueline Mroz is a freelance writer in Montclair.

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